
By Lindsey Danis
Fork two Russet potatoes all over. Put them on a plate, stick it in the microwave. Choose the ‘potato’ setting.
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Because I was a picky child who refused to eat egg yolks, my father carefully separated my eggs. The yolks went in the trash. The whites went on a plate, into the microwave.
The microwaved eggs came out lacy at the edges and slimy in the center. I ate the edges and pushed the slippery raw middle around my plate. I hated those eggs like I hated the watery blue skim milk that accompanied every meal at my father’s house.
Why couldn’t they fry my eggs in a skillet the way I liked them, the way my mother did?
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Meanwhile, slice both ends off a white onion. Peel the onion skin; this will make you cry. Wipe the onion tears with the crook of your elbow. Cut the onion in half, then in half moons, then slice the half moons into thin strips.
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My father ran the Boston Marathon for several years. One year, before the divorce, my mother and I cheered from the sidelines.
I wanted to give my father water. I stood there, cup in hand, heart blazing with pride. My father—my father!—was capable of greatness.
One day, I would be like him. I would run the Boston Marathon.
I was an overweight kid who self-soothed with food: Klondike bars, Dove bars, Kraft mac, Cadbury eggs.
After church, required at his house, we went to Stars on the Harbor for brunch. I ordered an egg white omelet with peppers and onions, no cheese. Those were a low-cholesterol, low-fat diet culture staple, like the Snackwell’s cookies my stepmother kept in the pantry, or the Quaker rice cakes I slathered with natural peanut butter.
I hated my brunch order for calling attention to my body, almost as much as I hated the layer of abdominal fat that exercise never shed.
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My father moved out when I was six. I have only a few memories of us together at my house. One day—it must’ve been a weekend, he was in jeans and a soft tee—he sat on the back porch with a can of Cheez Balls. He beckoned me to sit with him. We sat side by side, sharing the Cheez Balls, not saying much.
In that fragment of porch sitting, we are connected.
In other memories, I am a burden, an inconvenience asking for eggs the way I like them.
Often, he asks me to give things up—my favorite chair, the dresser where I store my clothes—so he might take them away with him, so he can keep the furniture set intact for his new family.
“You can’t have this, I’m using it,” I say.
He must not want it bad enough; he doesn’t offer to buy me another dresser.
Another day, he asks me to find his Boy Scout knife, so he can give it to my brother.
I scour the house and find a knife sheathed in leather, “Bill” etched on the blade. I keep this for decades, along with a pair of his old painting jeans I turn into cutoffs.
When I offer the knife, grown and no longer needing a talisman, he says it isn’t his.
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Sauté the onions in butter over medium-low heat. They should soften but not brown.
When the microwave beeps, touch the potatoes. They are done when the flesh gives beneath the rough brown skin, when your fingers scald, when steam billows from the fork holes. Stick the potatoes back in if they are not finished; microwave 1-2 minutes at a time until they pass the test.
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Every week, he sent child support in a small envelope printed with my mother’s name in neat, all-caps handwriting.
Sometimes he would buy me things: video games, a Snickers bar to split after a grocery run. Sometimes he would say, “Ask your mother.”
In the car, shuttling me to my home, he would grill me on what she spent his child support checks on.
I sat, mute, cheeks burning with shame.
There was a right answer, and I didn’t know it.
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Transfer the potatoes to a cutting board. Let them stand until you can bear to touch them.
Cube the potatoes by cutting them in half, then in half again, then in squares, leaving the skin on for nutrients.
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When my father accuses me of only remembering the bad, I think of the Cheez Balls.
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Add the potatoes to the skillet of onions. Cook on medium-low.
If the potatoes stick, add a tablespoon of butter. Stir less often than you think they need; this is the secret.
Season.
Serve warm.
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Ace nicknamed them Lu’s Dad’s Potatoes after I made them for Christmas brunch. I seasoned them with paprika and oregano; my father used salt and pepper, sparingly.
I spent decades learning his preferences so that I might be less of a disappointment.
Good grades were praised, bad ones were punished. Empty plates were ideal, whether I liked what was served or not.
I hated the taste of cream cheese but loathed margarine more. Because they did not keep butter in the house, I scraped the thinnest layer of cream cheese on my toasted bagel and choked it down.
I thought this was nothing until I found myself working in kitchens.
There, food was veneration and love language. Our purpose was to honor ingredients grown with care and picked at full flush of ripeness, to nourish strangers, to make something so delicious that it momentarily stunned the eater into silence.
Despite the punishing schedule and not enough money, cooking nourished my soul. It made me, the giver, feel cared for and held in ways I have struggled to find since.
What I had wanted was so simple. The simplest thing. Why could he not give it to me?
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Lindsey Danis is a queer, gender expansive writer whose work has appeared in Longreads, Catapult, Kitchen Table Quarterly, and Barzakh, among other places. Lindsey is the author of On Queer Homesteading and (Out) On the Road: The Radical Joy of Queer Travel.